Help a noob paint some minis

Backstory
Jeff White and a couple other guys and myself have been playing a little Blood Bowl league off-and-on for the past year. Three of us registered for the ROT Cup Tournament in Austin. Jeff was in Houston this week and found a store with a few brand new GW teams so I had him pick me up a High Elf team. One of the tournament rules is minis have to be painted at least three colors. I already have a painted human team (acquired through a trade, they were already painted) that I could play with, but I'd like to give these new elves a spin. Even if high elves aren't that great in a tournament setting.

The Problem
I think I've painted about three miniatures in my entire life, and that was when I was 12-15. And I didn't do anything beyond a base coat. Besides a lack of experience, I also do not possess a steady hand. I mean I'm seriously shaky. Compound that with having viewed pictures of really, really well done minis, I'm probably going to be disappointed no matter my results.

The Question
I've heard of the Minwax Dip method. Paint your minis in simple blocks of colors, dip them in the floor varnish, shake vigorously and voila, you've got a decent looking mini. My hesitation is I live in an apartment, so I don't really have an area to do this. We do have a patio, but I'm hesitant to fling varnish all over out there and get it taken out of my deposit. Also, I understand it takes a really long time to dry and I have a very energetic 2-year-old who likes to climb all over everything. I'm not sure I have a safe place to let the minis dry all day.

I've heard of people applying the Minwax with a brush, but if I'm going to brush it on I might as well do the Magic Wash (diluting Future floor polish with water and adding paint or ink) technique or use ink washes. How easy are these methods, though? Can I still do simple blocks of color or do I need to build up some shades on my model before applying the Magic Wash or using the inks?

Any advice for a noob like me would be greatly appreciated.

I don't like the Minwax thing. Pete has used it with success though. Similar and better results can be achieved buy just diluting some paint. Minwax to me makes the models look like they were drug through the mud and stomped on which to me isn't the look of a winning Blood Bowl team. It also isn't the look of a self-respecting High Elf team.

To steady your hand, develop a hold that is comfortable and has your painting hand in contact with something - Touch the bottom of your palms together, rest the wrist of your painting hand on your table surface, bring your arms in close. Basically touch as much as you can to something stable and keep your hold as closed as you can. Also, use some blue-tack (that stuff you hang posters on the wall with) to attach the model to the top of a paint pot or wine cork. That gives you more than just the base to hold onto.

Once you find a hold that is comfortable for you think about your color scheme. The best advice I can offer is keep a simple color palette. A base color for the majority of the model, a secondary color for the rest and then highlight colors very sparingly and uniformly throughout all the models. This will give your team a cohesive look. Look at a lot of photos online as well. Really look at the model and plan out in your head where you want the colors to go. Don't just go slopping stuff down, try to visualize the model and have a clear idea of what you want to do in your head, that's actually a step I didn't learn for years. Also think logically about the order you apply the paint, do your recessed areas first because you'll likely get paint on the raised areas. Your light colors before your dark.

Regarding a paint scheme, here I'll go a little non-traditional as far as High Elf lore goes. I'd recommend you coming up with a sweet backstory for your team. Something about them being outcasts, scorned, outsiders. I say that because you want a dark scheme. Starting with a black basecoat/primer means you make the model brighter and the black basecoat will do a lot of shading for you already. It also is a lot more tolerant where you don't have to get all the way into the corners or edges, if black still shows that's just shading.

I also feel using good paints make a world of difference. I like to thin my paint down and work in very thin layers because it keeps the details crisp on the model. Thin coats actually dry pretty quick, like if you do one boot by the time your done with the second the first is ready for the next coat, so go back and forth a few times until it is the tone you want. That also creates another area for shading because the color won't be 100% even so it makes for a more dynamic looking model without much effort. Trying to cover the model in one coat makes it look like the paint was just globbed on, because it was, and the model loses details.

Also learn about dry-brushing. That was one of the first techniques I learned and works very well. Basically take an old thick stiff brush, put a little paint on and quickly flick it back and forth on a papertowl until there is virtually no paint left on the brush, then do the same motion on raised portions of a model. That is a very easy highlighting technique.

Washes and inks I'm not a fan of because they are hard to control. Too much and it runs into areas on the model you don't want. Drybrushing will also get paint on areas you don't want, but it is easier to fix.

Watch a video or two on YouTube also, there are some good painting tutorials out there.
OHH...And get a practice model and paint that first. Just getting that one done and out of the way will teach you so much.

why don't you just use the Vallejo washes which you just paint on directly (I don't think you even need to thin them). Do the block colours, even just a base coat with a few splodges for face, hands and stuff and then put the wash over it. If you can be arsed to dry brush some highlights on it, otherwise just varnish on top. Sounds like its a waste of time you trying for "proper" painting if youve been drinking as much as Andy and have the jitters. No painting advice is going to fix your spazzy hand eye coordination. At least the base & wash (optional highlight) varnish will make them look half decent on the table compared to unpainted.

ps look for "magic wash" online, its something to do with using a wash but adding a few drops of washing up liquid or soap, or actually is it not that Pledge furniture/floor polish? It breaks the surface tension so your washes run easily into the cracks and dont bulge up where you dont want it.

check out this image
boardgamegeek.com/image/654531/memoir-44

look at step 3 to 4. Thats basically where you are gaining. splodgy block of colour, wash, voila. Looks half decent. a few seconds work, none of that retarded hold a mini in clips, dip it and flick it around your garage.

BTW I don't have the fucking jitters.

Computer cleaner is pure ethanol, you only get the jitters with methanol (and go blind).

I myself have a shaky hand and can tell you about the minwax dip method that I almost always use. First I prime the model with white primer if necessary. I know black is better but if I used black I'd never be able to see anything. Years of computer programming have left my vision less than optimal.

After the primer is dry I paint the models (I usually tape 6 or so down to a piece of cardboard so I can do many at once and they don't move around. I use double sided tape for this.) As suggested, dry-brushing is great and it's easy as hell. Once I'm satisfied and the models are dry, it's dip time. I have a darker minwax but if you can get a midtone I'd do it. It will significantly darken the model so paint brighter than you want.

I use a cheap throwaway brush and I wear latex gloves. Give the can one or two shakes. You don't want it fully mixed up! Brush it on as light as you can, smearing it around to keep it from pooling up anywhere. Let it dry overnight. Finally spray with a clear matte finish unless you want it shiny, because it will be. Done!

I suggest trying it on a test model first.

The other thing I haven't seen mentioned is don't skimp on brushes. The old splayed out Testors brush is ok for drybrushing but it is much easier to get good results with good brushes.

ThirstyMan wrote: BTW I don't have the fucking jitters.

Computer cleaner is pure ethanol, you only get the jitters with methanol (and go blind).

I didn't say YOU had the jitters dude, I fully expected you to be on the ethanol train, but Von Tush is only a microbrew above Cloudy in the noob stakes so I just assumed he was half blind and had the jitters!

hotseatgames wrote: Years of computer programming have left my vision less than optimal.

come on dude, you are also drinking methanol like Andy said. you and Von Tush are like Jack Lemmon and Walter Mattau

Drinking it is for noobs. I inject it.

Some thoughts on color schemes:

Real Madrid: White with dark blue and gold. High Elves are haughty, Real Madrid is known for spending big, big bucks on players. Pretty egotistical, etc. But a lot of high elf stuff is white and blue.
Arsenal: Red and white, and I guess silver for my third color. My favorite soccer team, but red for high elves? I dunno.
Seattle Sounders/Seattle Seahawks: Rave green and blue might be cool for the elves. White as a third color I guess.
Sporting KC/Manchester City: Sky blue, navy blue and white. Kind of fitting for elves, too.
Barcelona: Dark red, dark blue and yellow accent. Kind of fits with the high elves version of the "beautiful game." Don't know about those colors for high elves though. Would be great for pro elves I think.

My alma maters (not really crazy about any of these):
BYU: Blue and white
University of Texas: Burnt orange and white
My high school: Black, orange and white

Other, non sports franchise color schemes?
Maybe something with gray, seafoam green or something? I'm starting to lean toward something not associated with another sports team out there. Although a black and gold like the New Orleans saints could be cool.

ldsdbomber wrote:

ThirstyMan wrote: BTW I don't have the fucking jitters.

Computer cleaner is pure ethanol, you only get the jitters with methanol (and go blind).

I didn't say YOU had the jitters dude, I fully expected you to be on the ethanol train, but Von Tush is only a microbrew above Cloudy in the noob stakes so I just assumed he was half blind and had the jitters!

Noob?! I've been around since the old blog days! I won't post for long stretches but I'm around.

I've lived in KC for years and still haven't made it out to a Sporting match. I think that'd be a sharp looking scheme personally. Better than the old Wizards rainbow.

I wouldn't worry too much about sticking to a traditional High Elf scheme. Do what you want and what you'd be comfortable painting then create a cool backstory for them. That's the beauty of Blood Bowl, it only loosely ties to the Warhammer World so mix it up.

metalface13 wrote: The Problem
I think I've painted about three miniatures in my entire life, and that was when I was 12-15. And I didn't do anything beyond a base coat. Besides a lack of experience, I also do not possess a steady hand. I mean I'm seriously shaky. Compound that with having viewed pictures of really, really well done minis, I'm probably going to be disappointed no matter my results.

The Question
I've heard of the Minwax Dip method. Paint your minis in simple blocks of colors, dip them in the floor varnish, shake vigorously and voila, you've got a decent looking mini. My hesitation is I live in an apartment, so I don't really have an area to do this. We do have a patio, but I'm hesitant to fling varnish all over out there and get it taken out of my deposit. Also, I understand it takes a really long time to dry and I have a very energetic 2-year-old who likes to climb all over everything. I'm not sure I have a safe place to let the minis dry all day.

I've heard of people applying the Minwax with a brush, but if I'm going to brush it on I might as well do the Magic Wash (diluting Future floor polish with water and adding paint or ink) technique or use ink washes. How easy are these methods, though? Can I still do simple blocks of color or do I need to build up some shades on my model before applying the Magic Wash or using the inks?

Any advice for a noob like me would be greatly appreciated.

Dipping is actually a lot harder than it is made out. It's really easy to overdo it and make your miniatures look like they're covered in slime, like I did with my SH Genestealers.

Wash the minis in warm super soapy water and a toothbrush, let dry overnight after rinsing in cold water repeatedly, Then get some Krylon cheapie primer in the bas colors you want. If you can't spray paint them, then buy some Vallejo brush on primer. This is the base color -the most predominant color. Then paint on the details. If you have a lot, do them in a production line- all the legs, then arms, then helmet...or whatever...so that you are only doing one color at a time. Remember to paint like you put on clothes-socks then pants, shirt then coat, hair then helmet, socks then boots... Its easier to cover a screw up from lower level than go back and fix a lower level.

Once that's done, either use a premixed wash or make one by diluting the paint down about 10:1 or so until it has a milky consistency. best way to check it is get a brush full and then wipe it on white printer paper...just a hint of color, but mostly water.

Brush it ACROSS high spots so that it pools in the low spots...across the grain, so to speak. Let dry. For primo results use different washes. Alternatively brush on some of the Minwax product all over the model. THIN. THIN, THIN. Do not go too heavy or you will irreparably fuck your shit up. Its better to do 2 coats thinly than one thick jizzlob. 45 degree angle against the grain.

if you want to higlight, use the same paint that you used for the main colors but add a microdot of white or a lighter shade to mix with that in order to lighten it. Get the largest brush you csn use to effectively cover without going overboard and painting keepout areas for this. Dip just the tip in the brush, then wipe off on a paper towel or newspaper until it doesn't leave paint on it anymore. Then go across the high spots of the target area, holding th brush parallel to the model (90 degree) and do repeatedly to build up the highlight.

Once its dry it will.be very shiny except where you highlighted. You can spray on Krylon 1311 or brush on Liquitex Matte Sealer. THIN THIN THIN, I do 2 coats, always, If you want the helmet or armor shiny, brush on and omit the parts that you want shiny.

voila.

Don't listen to LSDS. He is an amateur who was begging me for the same informaton a week ago...look at this poncy tit now trying to pass on his wisdom LMAO

Edit: For armor, always use a black basecoat, especially with chainmail.

VonTush wrote:

ldsdbomber wrote:

ThirstyMan wrote: BTW I don't have the fucking jitters.

Computer cleaner is pure ethanol, you only get the jitters with methanol (and go blind).

I didn't say YOU had the jitters dude, I fully expected you to be on the ethanol train, but Von Tush is only a microbrew above Cloudy in the noob stakes so I just assumed he was half blind and had the jitters!

Noob?! I've been around since the old blog days! I won't post for long stretches but I'm around.

I've lived in KC for years and still haven't made it out to a Sporting match. I think that'd be a sharp looking scheme personally. Better than the old Wizards rainbow.

I wouldn't worry too much about sticking to a traditional High Elf scheme. Do what you want and what you'd be comfortable painting then create a cool backstory for them. That's the beauty of Blood Bowl, it only loosely ties to the Warhammer World so mix it up.

Yeah, the dark blue and light blue is a pretty good scheme. I just don't want to end up regretting my color choices in the future and go "oh, why did I paint them according to team X?"

That said, this red, white and silver team looks good.


And I really, really like this gold colored scheme. Looks pretty difficult to pull off though.


As for team name, I'm a Tolkein nerd and really like the name of the ancient, hidden elf city of Gondolin. So the Gondolin Glamdringers (also based on Gandalf's sword) has been bouncing around my head. I do like Blood Bowl's loose connections to Warhammer though.

QPCloudy, we all know you're a n00b beyond any help.